The Pool Guy Podcast Show

“99% trichlor” sounds like a mic-drop statistic, but it’s also one of the most persistent sources of confusion in pool care. We sit down with Bob Lowry to untangle what that number actually means, why “purity” is not the same thing as “chlorine strength,” and how the industry’s use of available chlorine (based on a chlorine gas reference) warps the way products get talked about on the truck and at the counter.

We walk through the real chemistry behind the label: what free chlorine is doing in the water, why the comparison standard matters, and how trichlor’s makeup includes cyanuric acid that builds over time. If you’ve ever heard someone say liquid chlorine is “weaker” or tablets are “the strongest,” this conversation gives you the language and logic to explain the difference clearly to clients and techs without hand-waving.

Then we pivot to cal-hypo, especially the idea that it “doesn’t add much calcium.” Bob breaks it down in practical terms you can use in the field: if you add cal-hypo to raise free chlorine, you are also raising calcium hardness in a predictable way, and that matters a lot in hard-water regions. We also compare how different percentages of available chlorine change dosing, why some cal-hypo tablets can require much more product than trichlor, and how to think about true cost per usable chlorine. You’ll also hear where to find Bob’s resources (pci.org and pccti.online) and how we can help you level up your pool service business.

Subscribe for more pool chemistry myth-busting, share this with a tech who still quotes the “99%” line, and leave a review with the biggest pool maintenance myth you want us to tackle next.

We revisit a classic pool chemistry myth with Bob Lowry and unpack why “99% trichlor” does not mean you are getting 99% chlorine in your pool water. We also run the numbers on cal-hypo side effects so you can predict calcium hardness rise over time instead of getting surprised by scaling later.  
• why “99%” on trichlor labels refers to purity, not chlorine content  
• how “available chlorine” is a comparison standard tied to chlorine gas  
• what actually gets added when you use trichlor, including cyanuric acid  
• why cal-hypo steadily raises calcium hardness and how to estimate it with ppm math  
• how different cal-hypo strengths and tablet percentages change dosing and cost  
• a simple spreadsheet method to compare true cost per equivalent chlorine  
• where to find Bob Lowry’s resources and tech bulletins online  

Are you a pool service pro looking to take your business to the next level? Join the Pool Guy Coaching Program. Learn more at swimmingpoollearning.com. If you're looking for other podcasts, you go to my website, swingprolearning.com. And if you're interested in the coaching program that I offer can learn more at folkcoaching.com.  

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Copper sounds like the perfect pool hack: add a “mineral system,” fight algae, and use less chlorine. The reality is more complicated, and that gap between marketing and chemistry is where stains, green hair, and unsafe water conditions show up. We’re joined by industry legend Bob Lowry, whose voice and teaching still carry weight across the pool industry, to give a clear-eyed answer to the question pool owners ask every year: is copper safe to use in a swimming pool?

We talk through how copper ionizers and mineral technology products work, what copper actually does well (algae control, some bacteria suppression), and why the “copper replaces chlorine” idea breaks down. A big theme is oxidation: copper doesn’t burn off sunscreen, sweat, and other bather waste, so the pool still needs an oxidizer, and chlorine remains the most practical tool for that job. We also dig into real-world safety, including bather-to-bather disease transmission and why copper is too slow to be your primary sanitizer, plus what the EPA requires when ionizers are used.

Then we get hands-on with the problems people see most: copper staining on plaster and the green-hair myth. We explain how copper gets into the water (including trichlor tabs in skimmers attacking copper equipment), how sequestrants degrade over time, and a smarter “one-two punch” for stain treatment using ascorbic or citric acid alongside products that actually remove metals from the water. If you want fewer surprises and better pool water chemistry, subscribe, share this with a pool owner who loves shortcuts, and leave a review telling us what copper problem you’ve run into most.

We sit down with industry legend Bob Lowry and get honest about copper in pool water, from mineral systems to copper algaecides, and why the chemistry can turn on you fast. We break down what copper is good at, what it cannot do, and how to fix copper staining without draining the pool.  
• copper mineral systems and how they add copper to the water  
• copper’s algae control benefits and why the effective level is close to the staining level  
• why copper does not oxidize bather waste like sunscreen, sweat, and urine  
• bather-to-bather disease transmission and why copper is not fast enough  
• the EPA position on ionizers requiring chlorine alongside them  
• the real cause of green hair and why chlorine is not to blame  
• copper algaecides, built-in sequestrants, and how chlorine and sunlight degrade them  
• a chlorine-first approach to killing algae and why it is cheaper and simpler  
• stain removal without draining using ascorbic or citric acid plus metal removal bags  
• tracking the metal source including tabs in skimmers, incoming water, equipment, water velocity, and new surfaces with iron  
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A pool finish can look “ruined” overnight, yet the real cause might be completely normal plaster behavior. I walk through the plaster problems that trigger the loudest complaints, the ones that quietly build over months, and the ones that only show up years later, right when the pool service pro is the easiest target. If you’ve ever inherited a pool with weird discoloration, streaks, or blotchy shading and felt your stomach drop, this conversation is for you.

We talk about plaster modeling and why mottling is often a natural part of cement-based pool surfaces, especially with colored plaster. I share why startup water chemistry matters so much, including what I’ve seen when total alkalinity is left too low after an acid startup or hot startup, and why I prefer a traditional pool startup with heavy circulation. You’ll also hear what white spotting and spot etching can look like, plus how trowel marks, dye batch changes, crazing, and localized etching can come from application, mix, or curing conditions rather than weekly maintenance.

Then we get practical: the fill-day mistakes that can permanently mark new plaster, like shutting the hose off before the pool reaches the tile line or using the autofill and leaving a runoff stain. Finally, I cover late-blooming issues like calcium nodules and why they can appear two to three years after the build, plus the pebble finish rust spots that start like algae but may actually be metal in the pebble and need a manufacturer repair.

If you work in pool service or you’re a pool owner trying to make sense of surface changes, subscribe, share this with a friend who’s dealing with plaster drama, and leave a review with the plaster issue you want me to tackle next.

I break down the plaster changes that make pool owners panic and why the service pro often takes the blame even when the cause traces back to startup, workmanship, or the material itself. You’ll learn how to recognize normal plaster modeling versus real defects, plus practical steps that reduce risk on new builds and protect your reputation.
• why plaster discoloration often gets pinned on the service company
• how modeling in plaster shows up over time, especially in colored finishes
• why low alkalinity during startup can accelerate mottling
• traditional startup basics, including high circulation and keeping chemicals in range
• white spotting and spot etching tied to mix chemistry and microcracking
• trowel marks, dye batch lines, crazing, and etching as workmanship or mix outcomes
• fill-day mistakes that create permanent rings, streaks, and hose marks
• curing risks like leaves, footprints, and pet paw prints becoming permanent
• calcium nodules that appear years later and why they are hard to “prove”
• pebble finish rust spots caused by metal in pebbles and how to get them fixed
Learn more at swimmingpoollearning.com.
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Robotic pool cleaners get all the hype, but hype does not keep a pool clean on Tuesday morning when the wind kicks up and dirt drops to the floor. We walk through why the suction side pool cleaner is still the number one choice for a lot of pools and a lot of pool service pros, especially when you care about total cost, repairability, and how often the cleaner truly runs without anyone “remembering” to use it. 

I break down the real world reasons suction wins: a lower price point than most pressure cleaners and almost every quality robotic pool cleaner, no booster pump energy penalty, and fewer complicated parts when something wears out. Then we get specific on the models that matter and why: Polaris Atlas and Polaris Maxx for avoiding hang ups on modern anti vortex main drains and for strong wall climbing without that loud waterline air-sucking behavior, plus the Hayward Aquanaut for long wear life and simple refresh kits, and the Hayward TracVac as another solid option. For vinyl liner and fiberglass pools, we also talk about diaphragm style cleaners like the Zodiac G3 and Ranger and why they can be a better fit. 

We also keep it honest about drawbacks, like hoses in the water and how leaf piles, twigs, or rocks can stop a suction cleaner. Finally, I share my favorite “best of both worlds” strategy: keep the suction cleaner in all week for consistent daily pool maintenance, then use a robotic pool cleaner when you want that party day polish and a hose-free look. 

If you found this helpful, subscribe for more pool maintenance and pool equipment guidance, share it with a friend who is shopping for an automatic pool cleaner, and leave a review with the cleaner you use and why.

We make the case that suction side pool cleaners are still the most practical automatic cleaners, even with today’s cordless robotic pool cleaners everywhere. We share the specific models we trust, the trade-offs we see on real pools, and why “always running” beats “sometimes used” for most owners and pool service routes.

• Pentair discontinuations and why competition reshapes cleaner choices
• a short list of suction side cleaners worth knowing instead of ten options
• Polaris Atlas and Maxx performance on anti vortex main drains and wall climbing
• Hayward Aquanaut as a long life low maintenance workhorse
• Hayward TracVac as a strong third option with tracked design
• Zodiac diaphragm cleaners for vinyl and fiberglass pools
• suction cleaner advantages on price point energy use and simple repairs
• real limitations with leaf piles twigs and rocks
• hose aesthetics complaints plus the reality that most people get used to them
• spot vacuuming an attached spa using the existing hose setup
• why robotic cleaners fail on routes when customers do not put them in
• the best combo plan suction during the week plus robot for party day polish

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One careless twist of a lid can turn a normal pool stop into a choking, lungs-burning emergency. We get real about the kind of “pool guy knowledge” you usually learn the hard way and how to build safer habits before something goes wrong on your route.

We start with trichlor tablets and why unknown buckets, sealed feeders, and even closed-off floaters can become a concentrated chemical gas trap when water gets inside. I share what it feels like when it hits you, why it happens, and the simple precautions that matter most: slow down, open from a safer position, and treat any self-contained trichlor container like it could be compromised. If you service pools for a living, this is core pool service safety, not optional caution.

Then we shift to saltwater pool maintenance and the springtime reality of salt pool startup. I explain why you should not trust the salt system reading on its own, how a digital salinity meter helps you dial in the real salinity level, and why pool salt purity matters when you are choosing bags from a supplier or big-box store. We also cover a classic communication failure that leads to too much salt: the customer adds bags after you mention it, then you add more the next visit.

Finally, we tackle the call every pool pro gets: “I think my pool has a leak.” We break down normal evaporation during heat waves, the red flags that suggest real water loss, and a practical bucket test you can run before anyone spends serious money on leak detection. If this helps you, subscribe, share it with a tech on your team, and leave a quick review so more pool pros can find it.

We share the pool tech lessons that are easy to miss until they hit you hard, from trichlor fumes to salt mistakes and leak calls. We walk through safer habits and simple tests that protect your lungs, your time, and your customer relationships.  
• opening unknown trichlor buckets with caution and distance  
• understanding how water in tablets can create dangerous fumes  
• using proper respiratory protection around sealed chemical spaces  
• being careful with inline and offline chlorinators that can trap gas  
• avoiding surprises with floaters that customers close off  
• adding salt at seasonal startup and verifying salinity independently  
• carrying a digital salinity meter instead of trusting the system reading  
• using only pool salt for purity to reduce staining risk  
• preventing double-dosing by clearly telling customers you are adding salt  
• explaining normal summer evaporation versus abnormal water loss  
• spotting leak indicators through water level changes and chemistry shifts  
• running the bucket test before recommending leak detection services  
Learn more at swimmingpoollearning.com.  
If you finish in the coaching program, you can learn more at poolcoaching.com.  

PlayRead Transcript

If you could hop in a time machine and give your younger self one page of business advice, what would you say and what would you beg yourself to stop doing? I take that question seriously and go back to 1988 when I started pool service at 16. What comes out is a set of lessons that every pool technician, pool service pro, and pool route owner can use to build a calmer and more profitable business.

First, I talk about a mindset shift that sounds risky but is actually freeing: most customers don’t care about their pool the way we care about their pool. They may not notice early plaster changes, small cosmetic issues, or the little things that can occupy our thoughts all week. That doesn’t mean we get lazy. It means we stop obsessing, stop carrying unnecessary stress, and focus our attention on the work that actually protects water quality, prevents algae, and keeps equipment running.

Then I get practical about what not to do on a weekly pool maintenance visit. Cutting corners like skipping brushing, doing a half-vacuum, or assuming an automatic cleaner will finish the job often boomerangs into a worse pool next week and a customer who’s rightfully annoyed. I also share why your service truck is not just transportation but a key part of route efficiency, comfort, and reliability.

Finally, I dig into customer service in the age of online reviews. I share a frustrating hotel story that reframed how I deal with complaints, pricing pushback, and tense conversations. The point is simple: winning the argument can mean losing the account. If you want your pool service business to last, build thick skin, stay professional, and make it easy for customers to feel taken care of. If this helps you, subscribe, share the episode with another pool pro, and leave a quick review so more techs can find it.

I go back to 1988 and share what I’d tell my 16-year-old self about running a pool route without driving myself crazy. The big theme is balancing pride in your work with practical habits that protect your time, your reputation, and your customer relationships.
• realizing most customers do not notice pool details like you do
• avoiding obsessive thinking while still keeping high standards
• cleaning with diligence instead of shortcuts that create next-week problems
• using modern spot-cleaning tools to keep pools polished
• treating your service truck as a reliability investment
• handling complaints without arguing to protect reviews and retention
Join the Pool Guy Coaching Program. Learn more at swimmingpoollearning.com. If you're interested in the coaching program that I offer can learn more at poolcoaching.com.

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A chemical brand doesn’t survive since the 1960s by accident and Hasa’s acquisition of Biodex is a sign these formulas are sticking around for the long haul. We talk through why this partnership is a big deal for pool service pros, then get practical about the Biodex products that earn repeat use on real routes, not just on a spec sheet. If you’ve been hunting for reliable pool chemicals, proven stain removers, or safer ways to handle an acid wash, this one is built for you. 

We start with Biodex Plaster White and Bright, an acid wash additive that changes the game by thickening the acid and water mix. That thicker, slow-moving coating helps you cover plaster more evenly, boosts brightening, and can reduce fumes while you work. We also share a straightforward mixing approach and how this small tweak can make an acid wash feel more controlled and consistent. 

Next, we dig into Biodex Aquadex 50 Stain Off and the kinds of stains it can lift, from light brown discoloration to ugly streaks that can show up after adding certain salts with anti-caking additives. You’ll hear how to apply it, why brushing matters, and the biggest “don’t ignore this” warning: stain treatments can crush your free chlorine if you overdose, and pH in the low 7s can be the difference between mediocre and impressive results. 

We also cover Biodex 300 Tile Cleaner and why it’s one of the strongest options for calcium scale, along with the handling cautions that protect decks, plaster, and even mosaic tile. We wrap with notes on algaecides, foam control, enzymes, and where to actually find Biodex products online without getting lost. Subscribe for more field-tested pool service tips, share this with a tech who fights stains, and leave a review with your toughest pool chemistry question.

We break down why Hasa acquiring Biodex is good news for pool pros and why these long-running chemicals still earn a spot on a service truck. We share the Biodex products we trust most, how we use them in the field, and the safety and water balance details that decide whether they work or backfire.
• why the Hasa and Biodex partnership matters for availability and product continuity
• Plaster White and Bright as an acid wash additive that thickens the mix for better coverage and fewer fumes
• Aquadex 50 Stain Off for metal and organic stains, including a real-world salt staining save
• the chlorine drop risk with stain removers and why correct dosing matters
• pH targets that improve stain treatment performance
• Biodex 300 Tile Cleaner strength, handling cautions, and when to keep it away from employees or delicate surfaces
• algaecide options including Skillet, plus foam and surface film considerations
• Foam Down use cases and the reminder to fix the cause of foaming, not just the symptoms
• where to find Biodex products online and how to navigate their product listings
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Underbidding can feel like the fastest way to grow a pool route, until you realize you are working harder for less money and dreading stops you used to feel excited about. We walk through the business-side rookie mistakes that quietly wreck a pool service business, starting with the most common trap: quoting a pool, cleanup, or service call without accounting for the real variables that drive time, chemical cost, and effort.

We get specific about what makes pricing tricky when you are new: pool size differences, heavy bather load, hidden debris from trees, and the true cost of green pool cleanups that require extra filter cleanings and a lot more chemicals than you expected. You will hear practical language for fixing an underbid the right way, including how to be honest with the customer, explain the reason for a rate change, and be willing to walk away rather than stay stuck in a bad deal that damages your mindset and your service quality.

We also share a simple framework for pool repair and equipment installs using a baseline hourly rate, realistic time estimates that include parts runs, and the “headache factor” for tight equipment pads and unexpected plumbing. Then we zoom out to route efficiency, covering why outlying pools and problem accounts can drain your day, and when dropping them is actually the move that increases profit per hour and makes the work feel fun again. If this helped, subscribe, share it with a pool pro friend, and leave a review so more service techs can price with confidence.

We break down the most costly rookie mistakes pool service pros make when building a pool route, especially pricing errors that quietly crush profit. We share practical ways to bid smarter, correct underbids without panic, and design a route that feels lighter and pays better.
• Underbidding weekly service and getting trapped at a low rate
• Spotting workload drivers during a bid like pool size, trees, and heavy use
• Fixing a bad bid by owning the mistake and giving the customer options
• Avoiding losses on green pool cleanups by pricing for time, chemicals, and filter cleanings
• Setting a baseline hourly rate for installs and repairs
• Adding a headache factor for tight equipment pads and surprise plumbing
• Dropping outlying pools to reduce drive time and tighten the route
• Letting go of problem accounts once replacement income is in place
Learn more at swimmingpoollearning.com.
Looking for other podcasts, you can find those by going to my website, it's awayfullearning.com.
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Buying a variable speed pool pump should feel like an upgrade, not a guessing game, but most people get stuck on the biggest horsepower number and end up overspending. We walk through a simple approach that starts with what you already have: match the total horsepower of your current single speed pump within a reasonable range, then use VS programming to run the lowest RPM that still gives you clean water and solid circulation.

From there, we get specific about the two things that quietly control everything: voltage and plumbing. If you’re on 115V wiring, a dual voltage VS pump can’t deliver the same total output it would on 230V, so a “3 HP” label may not translate to real-world 3 HP performance. And if your pool has 1.5 inch suction and return lines, there’s only so much flow you can realistically push before you’re paying for power your system can’t use. That’s why many small pools, above-ground pools, and older pools are better served by a right-sized option like the Pentair SuperFlo VS class, while larger pools with attached spas and water features often justify stepping up to a true 3 HP VS pump so full-speed performance is available when you need it.

We also talk practical install reality: sticking with the same pump brand and footprint (Pentair, Hayward, Jandy, and compatible drop-in options) can save time, reduce plumbing headaches, and make a swap feel close to plug-and-play. We finish with smart use cases like putting a VS pump on a water feature or booster pump, plus why variable speed pumps tend to last longer, run quieter, and deliver major energy savings when sized correctly. If this helps, subscribe, share the show with a pool owner or service tech, and leave a quick review so more people can stop buying the wrong pump.

We break down how to choose the right variable speed pool pump for very small pools, older pools, and large pools without wasting money on horsepower your system cannot use. I share simple sizing rules tied to your current pump, your voltage, and your plumbing so you get good flow, strong features, and real energy savings.

• matching total horsepower to your existing single speed pump within a reasonable range
• why 115V wiring limits real horsepower on dual voltage VS pumps
• how 1.5 inch plumbing caps the usefulness of oversized pumps
• why downsizing too far can reduce spa jet force and water feature performance
• when a 3 HP VS pump is the logical choice for large pools around 20,000 gallons or more
• reliable smaller-pool options like the Pentair SuperFlo VS and when WhisperFlo VS fits better
• choosing the same pump brand to simplify plumbing alignment and installation
• using VS pumps for water features and booster pump replacements
• why variable speed pumps often last longer and save more energy than single speed pumps

Learn more at swimmingpoollearning.com.
If you're interested in the coaching program that I offer, you can le

Bad pool chemistry decisions usually start with one thing: a bad test. We walk through the real pros and cons of the tools most people rely on to test pool water, and why your “best” method changes based on whether you’re running 80 stops a week, bidding a new account, starting up fresh plaster, or managing commercial compliance.

We compare test strips, Taylor-style reagent test kits (including the popular K-2005 and K-2006), photometers like the Pool Lab 2.0 and ColorQ 2X Pro, and high-speed options like the LaMotte Spin Touch. You’ll hear where each method shines, where it can mislead you, and how factors like reagent shelf life, tablet handling, and simple user error can swing your readings. We also dig into why photometers are so powerful for accurate pH and chlorine numbers, plus how digital logging can support commercial pool records and customer trust.

To wrap it up, we share a practical “mix and match” approach for pool service businesses: use the affordable tools daily, verify weird results quickly, and pull out the precision gear when you’re balancing LSI or solving a stubborn problem. We also make the case for one digital tool that earns a permanent spot on your truck: a reliable TDS and salinity meter, while explaining why portable digital pH probes often create more hassle than value. If this helps, subscribe, share it with another pool pro, and leave a quick review with your go-to testing method.

We break down the four main ways to test pool water and explain why “best” depends on your route, your budget, and how precise you really need to be. We compare speed, cost, accuracy, and real-world use cases so you can stop guessing and start testing with purpose.  
• four common methods: test strips, reagent kits, photometers, digital testers  
• why Taylor reagent test kits stay the most affordable option for weekly service  
• the biggest drawback of reagent kits: color matching and human interpretation  
• how photometers work and why they deliver more precise digital readings  
• when logging and documentation matter for commercial pools and startups  
• why LaMotte Spin Touch is fast but expensive to run  
• when test strips are accurate enough and when they are not  
• using strips to verify odd readings and quickly confirm low chlorine  
• which test factors you do not need to measure every week  
• how user technique affects photometer accuracy with tablets and drops  
• why a TDS and salinity meter is the most useful digital tool  
• why portable digital pH probes often create more work than value  
Learn more at swimmingpoollearning.com.  
Looking for other podcasts, you can find those by going to my website, swingingpolearning.com.  
If you're interested in the coaching program that I offer, you can learn more at poolguidecoaching.com.  

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